Editors notes
Alessandro Mori is the undisputed Sangiovese whisperer. I am absolutely impressed by the 2012 Brunello di Montalcino Madonna delle Grazie - a wine that stood tall above the rest. It also breaks ties with past editions released from this boutique winery in the northern part of the appellation. This is a dark, savory and succulent red wine that offers little in common with the ethereal and streamlined 2010 version that earned a perfect 100-point score two years ago. This wine earned a similarly high score, but for different reasons.
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Critic Scores & reviews
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Monica Larner
99"Alessandro Mori is the Sangiovese whisperer: l'uomo che sussurrava il Sangiovese. I need to say it in Italian, too, because it sounds so beautiful. The 2012 Brunello di Montalcino Madonna Delle Grazie is a phenomenal wine that speaks so highly of the potential of the mighty Tuscan grape, Sangiovese. This wine mirrors all the greatest attributes of the 100-point 2010 edition. Most significantly, it delivers profound purity and a most authentic varietal voice that sings both the high notes and the bass-baritone. First you have the wine's dark ruby appearance that is brilliant and vibrant but beautifully concentrated. Then you have the multilayered bouquet that skillfully presents ethereal notes of wild berry and grilled herb on first nose. Those lighter tones lift gracefully to reveal substantial aromas of dark fruit, spice, tobacco and white truffle that form the wine's lasting aromatic core. The mouthfeel is feather light in texture, but don't underestimate its power or persistence. This is a true gem of Italian enology and sadly only 6,200 bottles were made."
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Locations
Italy
Italy has some of the oldest wine production methods in the world and almost every part of the country is planted under vine. From the Alps in the north to the very southernmost parts of Sicily where Africa is almost in sight, wine is successfully cultivated. In addition to the latitude covered, Italy's many mountains and hills provide a plethora of altitudes for grape growing in various soils and micro-climates. The extensive coastlines along the peninsula that is Italy provide maritime climates for the coastal wine-growing areas. Over 350 grape varieties are 'authorised' in Italy, though up to 550 varieties are thought to be grown.
The classification system of Italian wines has four classes, with the intention of defining a wine's origin a quality. Two of these classes are table wines, whilst DOC and DOCG fall under the EU quality wine produced in a specific region category. Vino da Tavola (VDT) means that the wine comes from Italy. Most of these wines are generally basic table wines that are consumed domestically. Indicazione Geografica Tipica (IGT) denotes a more specific region within Italy, and the resultant will be of higher quality than simple table wines, but won't conform to the rules required for higher certification. Both Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC) and Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG) are regionally more specific than IGT, and have stricter rules regarding the grape varieties grown, yields per hectare, minimum alcohol levels and so on. The major difference between DOC and DOCG is that the latter has to undergo a blind-tasting session to ensure the highest quality is achieved. Italy has 32 DOCG appelations, 311 DOC appelations and 120 IGT zones.
Key regions include Piedmont, Tuscany, Abruzzo, Veneto, Sicily and Sardinia. Common white varieties grown are Pinot Grigio, Arneis, Vermentino, Verdicchio, Fiano and Moscato. The red varieties grown the most are Sangiovese, Barbera, Dolcetto, Nebbiolo, Montepulciano, Primitivo, Nero d'Avola and Corvina.
Tuscany
Tuscany is the oldest wine region in Italy, with a long history dating back over 2700 years. The region is on the Western coast of Italy, stretching from the coastline of the Tyrrhenian Sea all the way to the Apennine mountains, with the majority of the region being quite hilly.
Contributing to around 6% of Italy's total wine output, Tuscany is the third most planted region, but only the eight biggest producer. Much of this can be attributed to the hilly terroir and poor soils leading to lower yields, but generally higher quality wines. The region produces far more red than white wine, and is responsible for two of the most famous Italian red wines, Chianti and Brunello di Montalcino.
Chianti was first classified in 1716, and the region of Tuscany now has 29 DOC and 7 DOCG classifications. In the 1970s 'Super Tuscan' wines emerged of supreme quality, commanding very high prices. Although they were initially produced outside the DOC or DOCG zones, most of the regions have since been classified, though some producers still opt to use the simpler and less restrictive IGT labelling.
The famous red wine Chianti is based on the the Sangiovese variety, though is most commonly blended with Shiraz or Cabernet Sauvignon. The blending of multiple grapes is common, even Bordeaux blends can be found. White wines produced include Vermentino, Vernaccia, Pinot Blanc and Chardonnay.
Brunello di Montalcino
Brunello di Montalcino is a Sangiovese Italian wine produced in the vineyards surrounding the town of Montalcino in the Tuscany wine region.
The Sangiovese grape is the most widely planted grape in the Montalcino region and is the only permitted grape in the Brunello di Montalcino DOCG. The particular clones of Sangiovese are unique to the Montalcino region and have developed in adaption to that area's specific terroir.
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