Editors notes
Ao Yun is the realisation of a dream to produce world class, Bordeaux-style wine from China. Commissioned by Moët Hennessy, Dr. Tony Jordan embarked on a four year long mission to scour the terrain of China for an ideal climate to produce top class Cabernet Sauvignon. Settling in the foothills of the Himalayas, to the north of the Yunnan province, Ao Yun hails from the legendary and remote village of Shangri-La. Sitting at an altitude ranging between 2,200 and 2,600 metres above sea level, the estate is named after the magnificent clouds that gather above the permanently snow-capped mountain ranges: in Mandarin, “Ao Yun” means “flying above the clouds”.
Farming is handled by local families across the 28 hectares of vineyards, divided among 314 blocks with 727 tiny sub-parcels. Organic viticulture is practiced in the vineyards, while everything is done by hand with no machinery. The 2018 Ao Yun is a blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 19% Cabernet Franc, 10% Merlot, 7% Syrah and 4% Petit Verdot.
Details
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Low Tannin (Low Tannin)Tannic (Tannic)
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Aroma
- Blueberry
- Boysenberry
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Palate
- Blue Fruits
- Cassis
- Graphite
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Red Meat
Critic Scores & reviews
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James Suckling
98"I love the depth and complexity of the nose, which brings you down deeply into the wine, showing blackberry, ink, tar, earth, incense, cloves, and black licorice. Thyme, too. The purity of the fruit, including cassis, is the real thing. This is full-bodied, but remains so fresh and vertical on the palate. The tannins are so fine and integrated, producing a millefeuille-like layering of tannin and cool, blue fruit. Incredible wine. The greatest wine made in China so far. 60% cabernet sauvignon, 19% cabernet franc, 10% merlot, 7% syrah and 4% petit verdot. 26,000 bottles made. Drinkable now, but will be so much better in four or five years."
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Decanter
96"Gorgeously seductive nose, this is rich and abundant, aromas bursting out the glass, smells sweet and spicy, five spice fragrance with sweet blackcurrant and black cherry aromas. Mouthcoating and invigorating on the palate, totally harmonious and balanced with the salinity and wet stone nuances coming through backed by ripe, but so well defined, fruit flavors. Such purity on both the nose and palate. This is seriously refined, aromatics are preserved, balancing power with excellent acidity, so you get these bright and energetic flavours but still with structure. Seductive but this also has a sense of classicism. Lovely saline elements and cooling touch at the end with all the flavours lingering long in the mouth. Will be interesting to see how it ages. Drinking Window 2029 - 2045. (Georgina Hindle)"
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Jane Anson
95"Polished, smooth and ripe tannins that have plenty of movement in them. Ao Yun has been a wine with confidence and personality since its first vintage of 2013, and here balances concentrated damson and black cherry fruits with fragrant black tea, mandarin peel and sage together with earthier smoked cumin and saffran spice. 2018 was a late harvest through to November 15 (beginning September 7) and ripening under cooler, dry skies in November has translated into drawn out sculpted flavours that reflect the mountain site, and low yields of 21hl/h. Initial ageing took place in 50% Chinese earthenware jars and 50% oak barrels for five months, then a further 10 months in 30% new oak barrels. The team introduced village crus in this year also, drawing them from the four villages where the vines are located, and keeping 54% of overall production for Ao Yun itself - just another clue to the ambitions at this briliant estate. Drinking Window 2025 - 2040."
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Locations
China
In recent years, China has become an important red-wine producer, primarily from Cabernet Sauvignon (the most planted wine-grape variety), Carménère (the locals call it Cabernet Gernischt), Merlot, and Cabernet Franc. The Chinese draw on the French Bordeaux model of winemaking, maturing premium and super-premium styles of wine for a longer period of time in French oak barriques. The resulting red wines are often dry and may or may not be influenced by new oak. However, there are also some off-dry and sweet styles of red wines. And China does produce small quantities of rosé and white wines – the latter primarily from Chardonnay and Riesling – although as a whole, the Chinese domestic market prefers red wines.
China Multi Regional
China’s wine regions include Heilongjiang and Jilin, Beijing and Hebei, Shandong, Shanxi and Shaanxi, Ningxia, Xinjiang and Gansu, and Yunnan – with a number of them developing strong reputations for quality and production. Given the country’s vastness, it’s no wonder that viticulture embraces varying terrains and climates; However, most of these climates are continental (featuring cold, dry winters). Though Chinese wine production centres on red wine, little information is yet available on multiregional fruit sourcing and blending practices for Chinese domestic wine production.
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