Clos Mogador Nelin 2010
SKU
CMNE201012 UCAU
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The grapes come from various vineyards at high altitude, Viognier and Pinot Noir
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René Barbier and his son produce a tiny quantity of this extraordinary textural, unique white.
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Barbier's aim is to produce a truly unique wine that reflects both the rocky, sun drenched soil of Priorat while at the same time paying homage to the historical wines of the area.
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1 or more bottles$137.01
Editors notes
The palate is svelte, crisp and long, finishing in a spiced phenolic pucker that whips the palate clean
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Critic Scores & reviews
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Mike Bennie
93"My friendly local Bibendum wine wholesaler man, the grand-poobah-in-lieu, Stu Northey, tends to drop off wines at the end of a day after peddling them around to far more sales orientated targets than I. Lucky me. So, I returned home after a day away from the homestead to find a little care package of Rene Barbier’s Clos Mogador, Nelin and Manyettes looking at me forlornly. Lucky me. The wines had been open a day, so that is the caveat for the notes – not much of an issue with R. Barbier wines which seem to be built for long hauls. Anyway, Nelin is an unusual fruit salady blend of 50% garnacha blanca with the balance in macabeau, viognier, marsanne, roussanne, and the local varieties of pedro ximenez and escanyo velles – from revitalised old vineyards in Priorat, Spain. It can all be a bit mysterious to what degree the other varieties are present, but it’s a planned program, not left entirely up to random numbers. The wine is fermented in egg-shaped concrete tanks before hitting barrels for around 9 months. Pretty, delicate aromas – fresh beeswax, white orchard fruits, honeysuckle – but the feel is of great complexity, stippled with quartz and wet stone mineral-like tinges. The palate is svelte, crisp and long, finishing in a spiced phenolic pucker that whips the palate clean. There is architecture here, fine-boned structure that highlights the layered fruit flavours. Up front is a touch of creamy/waxy slipperiness, the acidity is glassy, but brings some firm edges to the wine. Really interesting, really compelling drinking."
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Locations
Spain
Spain is definitely one of the new-world players to keep an eye on. It is the land of old-vines, american oak and sherry! The main varieties grown in Spain are Tempranillo and Garnacha (Grenache) in the reds, and Airén, Viura/Macabeo, Verdejo and Albarino for the whites. Lesser grown whites include Palomino. Other reds successfully cultivated include Carignan, Mourvedre and Mencia.
Although Spain can be quite a warm country, the vast majority of vineyards are 600m or so above sea level, so the cooler nights allow the grapes to develop full colour and acidity.
Rioja is undoubtedly the long-standing king of all the Spanish wine regions, where Tempranillo and Garnacha are commonly blended. However more recently many more regions have come to the forefront of interest. Ribera Del Duero is producing excellent Tempranillo blends rivalling those coming out of Rioja. Jerez in the South is the home of the fortified wine Sherry.
Spanish wine laws created the Denominación de Origen (DO) system in 1932 and were later revised in 1970. These include:
- Denominación de Origen Calificada (formerly called DOCa) Priorat calls itself DOQ for Denominació d'Origen Qualificada in Catalan and has a track record of consistent quality and is meant to be a step above DO level.
- Denominación de Origen (DO)- Used for mainstream-quality wine regions. Nearly two thirds of the total vineyard area in Spain is within the boundaries of a DO region.
- Vino de Calidad Producido en Región Determinada (VCPRD) - This is somewhat of a stepping stone to DO status.
- Vinos de la Tierra (VdIT) - A level similar to France's vin de pays system, where the regions are much larger.
- Vino de Mesa (VdM)- The equivalent of 'table wines' from France or Italy
Catalonia
Catalonia is a region in the northeast of Spain, known for its warm Mediterranean climate and exceptional wines. The vineyards of Catalonia are mostly located south of Barcelona and are spread across the coastal plain and hills to the west. The region comprises ten denominated wine regions that concentrate on producing Mediterranean red grape varieties like Garnacha and Carignan (known as Samsó or Cariñena) and white varieties like Garnacha Blanca and Xarelᐧlo. Other grape varieties like Tempranillo, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, and Trepat are also grown throughout the region. White varieties Parellada and Macabeo (known as Viura in Rioja) are used for Spain's premium sparkling wine, Cava.
Catalonian wines are known for their high alcohol content, full-bodied nature, and powerful minerality, owing to the chalky, granite, and slate soils on which the grapes are grown. These unique soils impart a distinct flavor profile to the wines, making them stand out among other wines. Apart from Garnacha and Carignan, the region has also seen an increase in plantings of international grape varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, which are used to make high-quality wines. The region is also known for producing unique white wines, thanks to the use of local varieties like Xarelᐧlo and Garnacha Blanca, which impart a distinct flavor to the wines. Overall, Catalonia is a region that produces exceptional wines, thanks to its unique climate, soils, and grape varieties.
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About the brand Clos Mogador
Rene Barbier is the winemaker behind Clos Mogador and it is he who has conferred worldwide recognition to Priorat. He has enabled this region on the wild hills above Tarragona (near the northeast coast of Spain) to become one of the most prestigious vineyards in Spain.
Thanks to this Frenchman (originally from the Cotes-du-Rhone), who settled here in the 1980s, Priorat has now become one of the country’s most renowned wine regions. Housed in an old property that he bought at Gratallops, he created his own vineyard in this region known for its shale land. About 15 years ago, this village comprised of around one hundred inhabitants, now there are more than a thousand.
Rene Barbier studied in Burgundy, then at the University of Bordeaux before numerous stints across France, notably at Chateau Petrus! In 1989, he harvested his first grapes, which came after ten years of hard work - during which he combined his work selling wine during the week with his passion of developing his vineyards and building his house on the weekends. In order to produce the best wine, Barbier employs new technologies while also building and maintaining his diverse wine knowledge. Attention to detail is taken to the extreme with his estate, promoting biodiversity by planting fruit trees, almond trees, olive trees and flowers between the vines. During harvest, he determines the exact timing for pruning each plant. Even better the harvested grapes are sorted by hand, one by one, before moving them into a vertical manual press, more than a century old that was recovered from an old cellar!
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