This is Alistair here and, as you already know, the 2020 Bordeaux En Primeur season has well and truly begun. Excitement is building, and we’ll soon see the first En Primeur releases in the coming days.
Just before then, I wanted to share some details of what's been, well, the complete opposite of a hot topic... the worst frost in decades for France a few weeks ago. While this does not impact what happened last year, I thought, as part of the 2nd Edition of the En Primeur Insider, I'll discuss what this means for En Primeur season 2021 (released next year), and a little more detail on what is being described as 'the greatest agricultural catastrophe of the beginning of the century.’
Please find the second report from me below and be sure to subscribe for exclusive access to editorial pieces throughout the En-Primeur Campaign.
Frost Damage
‘Things can change overnight,’ is an oft-overused, somewhat flippant cliché. The recent frosts that struck France however certainly did exactly that for countless helpless vignerons throughout the country. Early estimates suggest that total losses in the sector could reach €3bn. The French government have already pledged €1bn in aid following what they have described as ‘'the greatest agricultural catastrophe of the beginning of the century.’
Temperatures plummeted to -7°C in parts of Burgundy, as distressed growers flooded their vineyards with burning straw and oil burning lamps in an attempt to stave off the worst of the frosts. The effects were all the more brutal since the big freeze followed a period of early Spring warmth. This meant that the grapes were further along their vegetative cycle and thus more exposed to the harsh elements. Chardonnay, being an early ripener seems to have been more affected than Pinot Noir throughout Burgundy.
Whilst Burgundy in general (and specifically Chablis) are increasingly accustomed to the effects of frost damage, other regions are not. The Languedoc and Rhône face perennial problems with drought and rising temperatures, but 2021 has delivered a devastating start to the growing season. Languedoc-Rousillon, France’s most prolific and productive region faces significant losses of up to 30-50%. The Rhône is now forecasting it’s lowest yields in 40 years, with Côte-Rotie having been particularly ravaged.
The Impact
Bordeaux is at the forefront of current trade activity with the 2020 En Primeur campaign recently getting underway (keep an eye open for all of our coverage). They too were dealt a considerable blow from the frosts throughout the region. Certain areas on the left bank (Pauillac and St Estèphe) are aided by proximity to the estuary which moderates temperatures so were less damaged. However anecdotal reports suggest that Margaux, Listrac and Moulis and especially Entre-Deux-Mers have been significantly impacted. I suspect that on the right bank the vineyards (especially lower lying inland vineyards of St Emilion) have also been affected due to the prevalence of Merlot and it’s propensity for early flowering.
What remains to be seen (and we will never really know the answer!) is how the frosts will impact prices for the Bordeaux 2020 En Primeur campaign. It is highly unlikely to result in more moderate pricing given the damage that has already been inflicted on potential yields for the upcoming crop. Current signs are that 2020 is potentially a good vintage in certain areas, but is anything but homogenous. This means that choosing your estates wisely is even more important. It also means that looking at wines from recent vintages is also a good bet right now, the 2019 vintage may merit revisiting.
- Alistair Cooper,
Master of Wine & Esteemed Critic
Cotes de Castillon is another one of those Right Bank appellations (along with Fronsac) that does well in very hot vintages such as 2020. This is largely due to its limestone soils as well as the huge amount of biodynamic estates in the area. Unsurprisingly for me the standout performer was Clos Puy Arnaud in this year’s Castillon offerings.
The largest of the communal appellations in The Médoc, Margaux is also the only one to boast 1855 classified estates at all rankings from first to fifth. Generalisations abound with regards style and regional typicity in Bordeaux, but there is certainly some truth to these stereotypes. Margaux is often touted as the most feminine, aromatic and perfumed of the top appellations on the Left Bank. There is certainly truth in this statement and the wines can be extremely seductive, thrilling and subtle. In a word, think ‘finesse.’
The Left Bank of Bordeaux is littered with famous names, both villages as well as estates. However, it’s widely accepted that the most famous village and home to three of the five lauded First Growths (Lafite, Latour and Mouton-Rothschild) is Pauillac. Here Cabernet is king and is famed for producing powerful, concentrated and intensely cassis laden wines with cigar box, pencil shavings and graphite characteristics. These are the most long-lived of the wines of Bordeaux and are blessed with a strong and fine tannic backbone to aid in this respect. For me the most beguiling quality of Pauillac is the development that happens in bottle, with such aromatic complexity coming with age.
Today our Bordeaux En Primeur Team will be introducing you to one of the hidden gems of one of the smallest but mightiest Appellations in Bordeaux; Chateau Taillefer from Pomerol.
This is a winery dedicated to progression, and with a keen eye on the future and climate change. They have committed to doubling their Malbec plantings and increasing their Cabernet Franc to 12% in the next five years. Alongside this they have employed the services of renowned consultant Eric Boissenot from the 2020 vintage. Boissenot is famed for his work at Lafite, Mouton-Rothschild, Latour, Margaux, Leoville Las Cases and many others. A pretty impressive haul of names!
I have a plethora of St Emilion samples to wade through in the coming fortnight, and having already sampled a few I am really confident that even in this heterogeneous vintage, there will be some sublime wines to be found.
The arrival of Bordeaux En Primeur is a rare moment in the fine wine calendar. This year to make the process an intimate and unique experience, we have as your guide, Alistair Cooper, a Jancis Robinson wine critic and Master of Wine, who has been invited to taste the 2020 Bordeaux releases from barrel. There is no better resource to getting an exclusive perspective, first-heard insights and what you can expect from this new vintage.
